Tailcoat (White Tie)

black tail coat Ottavio Nuccio Gala


The tailcoat or white tie is a male suit of high etiquette for evening formal gala events and indoors, as opposed the tuxedo that is dressing in less formal events.

Currently, its use is practically limited to people of high social and political level; usually Monarchs, heads of state and diplomats, so it is difficult to find this dress in a conventional cabinet.

Classic white tie Ottavio Nuccio Gala

This attaire with large protocol supports medals and decorations. If band isdressed, it must be over the vest.

One of the most famous events in which a tailcoat is dressed, is the ceremony of the Nobel prizes in Sweden.

Other events where it is common to see men dressed in "white tie" is in the gala dinners at embassies, royal coronations, gala balls, operas, classical concerts or wedding night (but only after 19 : 00).

Italian bespoke black white tie wedding suit, in 100% wool fabric, style 1215 Ottavio Nuccio Gala, 2015 Black Tie collection.
At first, the tailcoat was not a formal attire for ceremonies.

In fact, it was created in the late eighteenth century England as a comfortable outfit for the field and for military cavalry, and was very different from how we know it today.

The tailcoat was perfected in the early nineteenth century by Lord Brumell, who declared it the most elegant suit all ages.

Lord Brummel



In the early twentieth century, the tailcoat became an evening gown, along with the tuxedo.

After World War II, it became increasingly typical of nobles and members of the Court symbol, as well as participants in receptions and evening shows of great class, and currently plays the role of an evening gown the highest level.

vladimir-pervunensky-the-viennese-waltz-2007-e1269948812723

“Vienna Waltz”

    

Elements:

- Jacket: black froack coat(can be white, sometimes) with silk or satin lapels and typical "swallow-tailed". It is short in the waist and is unique in that there needs to be buttoned. Each side has one or two rows of three buttons.

- Pants: black (or white sometimes) striped satin double wide on each side (satin stripes that run along the outer side of the leg pants). No pinces.

- Vest: Absolutely required; can be with a row of three buttons or double breasted with six buttons, usually is on white pique except for receptions that take place in the Vatican or some academic events during which the black vest is required.

- Shirt: Made of "double twisted" in cotton pique or pleated chest, pure cotton, double cuffs for cufflinks and diplomatic neck, that is to say back on top and the ends folded outwards. The cuffs are simple (as opposed the tuxedo), closed for twins and should hover subtly jacket.

- Tie: white pique bow tie as the vest, is one of the main features of the tailcoat. The bow needs to be carefully hand-knotted and never pre-tied. For religious and academic events as dresses black vest.

- Scarf: Preferably white linen or white silk.

- Suspenders: black or white.

- Socks: Knee, black, silk or wool plaid.

- Shoes: Always in black, patent leather plain Oxford or OperaPumps.


Accessories:

- Hat: black silk topper.

Colour: Black wool, cashmere or silk. Both in morning coat or tail coat, warm clothing is not recommended because clogged the attire.

In large events, if the burial of Don Juan de Borbón, the authorities showed off his coat garment without any shelter, despite the bad weather.

The royal palaces of Europe also have covered steps to spare the guests have to wear warm clothing.

- Scarf: White, although usually of silk or cashmere wool.

- Gloves: White silk.

- Pocket watch: Golden better than silver.

- Walking cane: Generally, black.