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Types of groom suits
Types of groom suits, regardless of the variation in fabrics (tweed, cashmere, lambswool, etc.), drawings (plain, stripes, checks or window pane, pow, herringbone, houndstooth, etc.) or colors (black, navy, brown, gray, etc.) and taking into account that there may be hundreds of variations on these classic cuttings or bases (width lapels, buttons on the sleeves, pockets, etc) we can classify them according to how the jacket is buttoned or to the shapes of its lapels:
- single breasted
- double breasted
- notch lapel
- peak lapel
Regarding the pockets, it will normally be two side pockets jacket or 2 + 1 which is smaller and located in the upper right pocket.
Any suit must always carry one of vital importance, on the left side of the front, to place the handkerchief.
Single breasted suits may bear one, two or three buttons, while double breasted ones take typically two rows of buttons and sometimes three.
Sleeves may have three or four buttons, depending on the personal judgment of each.
The rear openings's main function is to improve mobility; without apertures, the jacket tends to wrinkle.
Two buttons single breasted suit
One of the most used in our daily life, is the quintessential basic .. this cut is used both in sport jackets and dress coats.
It is the "wildcard" suit because it favors almost all men, if well made.
Traditionally, under the rules of tailoring, the jacket has notch lapels, but can also be made out on peak.
The jacket is usually worn full buttoned or only the upper button (active button), but never the lower bottom only.
It has two rear openings and can also take the ticket pocket.
It has shorter notch or peak lapels is usually worn with vest, but all this is very dependent on fashion and trends of the moment.
It never completely buckled and jacket should never be unbottoned, except to take a seat.
As in the previous model, the middle button is buttoned (active button) or the first two top buttons, but never the first or the lower one only.
One button single breasted suit
It is probably best suited for dress suits or ceremony where high formality is not required. With one active button, has always be buttoned.
With peak lapels and slightly slanted pockets give the suit a more modern character.
The jacket has a single opening in the center of the back and stretches without going to the length of the coat.
It is the most central opening (the one that reveals tie or vest).
Double breasted suit
It is characterized by having two rows of active buttons (four to show or 4x2). To this traditional double-breasted suit is called "Kent" in honor of Prince William, Duke of Kent.
Today it is less relevant today, although in England it is one of the most used, even with a pant in different fabric or color.
It has always been considered the most elegant, and usually carry or fully buttoned or unbuttoned completely (although not recommended), but never half-buttoned.
The most common double-breasted jackets are set with two rows of active buttons (six to show or 6x2) or three buttons each. or even three rows of active buttons (6x3).
Regarding their lapels, it is normal to be peak and slightly wider than single breasted suits.
Keep in mind that in all previous models in the back of the jacket may have a central aperture, or two symmetrical openings.
Although not a rule, tend to dominate the center opening in "dress" suits and the two openings in "daily"jackets and sport jackets .
Ottavio Nuccio suits differ from the rest, mainly because they are composed as follows:
- Jacket, coat or frock coat of score line, which highlights and slims your figure, content shoulders and slightly narrow lapels.
- Pants without clamps, high cut point on the natural waist, polished in the "fall" and the narrower legs than usual online.